Tuesday, August 17, 2010

U-turn

Quick post. Shortly before Novosibirsk the Czech guys and I go separate ways. Novosibirsk is the third biggest city in Russia and sits exactly in the middle of the country. The local studies museum has a small section on shamanism with explanations in Russian language only. Coincidentally, in the same venue there's special Marc Chagall exhibition. Chagall is one of my favourite painters.

After one day, I hit the road again in direction to Krasnoyarsk. Camping proves stressful as mosquitoes and small flies are plentiful. In fact there are so many flies that it sounds like it's raining flies under my hoodie. It's time to reassess my situation. I have 2,400 kms from this point to the Mongolian border via Krasnoyarks and Irkutsk. I must enter Mongolia before the 2nd of September. That means I have to do 100 kms a day without any rest and without any time for unpredictable events, such as mechanical problems or heavy rain. And I'm fed up with the insects. It might be like this all the way to lake Baikal. On the other hand, I could return to Novosibirsk and enter Mongolia through the Altay mountains. No mosquitoes in the mountains, but it involves 1,400 kms of unpaved roads in Mongolia. I don't know if my bike can take it but it's worth trying. More time in Mongolia and less time in Russia.

In Ojac I take an 'electrichka' train back to Novosibirsk. While waiting at the train station, I meet a man who loves football and gives me a bag full of cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers from his dacha and helps me get the bike on the train. I sit next to his neighbour, lovely Valentina, from the Ukraine, in her 50s and who, before getting off, makes sure our neighbour passenger agress to help me in Novosibirsk. This time, I stay with Serguey in Academgorod. Academgorod is the 'Sillicon valley' of Siberia and Serguey is a C++ developer from Yakutia and a keen cyclist. He's going to Crime on a cycling tour this September. Serguey finds it amusing that I think mosquitoes are too much. In Yakutia they're much worse. Serguey loves Russia and dislikes people who want to leave their country. He loves the fact that people are self reliant, can fix things themselves and  they fix things themselves. He believes in science and walks everywhere. And he walks fast! Serguey helps me find a dentist (this time is final), a hairdresser and a good bike shop where I buy 20 inch BMX tires.


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